Sundays in San Telmo
San Telmo lives up to it’s reputation. In every single guidebook, ST is described as “bohemian” with artists and musicians on every corner, culture spewing out the seams. Lots of guidebooks exaggerate to make places seem more authentic, but San Telmo lived up to its description. My first stop was the Feria de Antiguidades in Plaza Dorrego (Defensa and Humberto). I spent an entire hour wandering around the plaza, checking out religious pendants and old photographs. A lot of the stuff is too expensive for my taste (aka more than 10 pesos), but I bought two photos. One was a family photo from the 1960’s and the other was of a glamorous man with a mustache. According to the lady at the booth, this type of man was the chamucherro of his generation, sweeping the ladies off their feet with his smooth tango moves.
San Telmo’s feria isn’t limited to one plaza, it spreads out through many blocks and streets. Sections are devoted to impressionist and modern art. Bands can be found on nearly every block, playing jazz or the tango. The best part about the fair was it’s authenticity– Argentines visit the area as well.
Street vendors line the streets, selling everything from meringues filled with dulce de leche to popcorn to basil, tomato, and cheese empanadas the size of my head!
